Pig Feeding Guide

Feeding pigs depends a lot on how old the pigs are. If they are reproducing, the state they are in at the time is an indication of how they should be fed. Foraging pigs should be allowed to obtain some food on their own but should also be given supplements to make sure all they get the necessary nutrients. Foraging pigs eat a variety of things they find such as apples, acorns, brambles and since by nature pigs are omnivores they will eat the occasional earthworm. Also any other fruits and vegetables are good for pigs as long as the fruits and vegetables are not from a kitchen. Food from a kitchen or anywhere that meat is sold cannot be given to pigs that are being bred for commercial production under law. More specifically, it is illegal to feed any household waste to pigs that are being bred for production purposes. This is due to the threat of disease from contamination by animal by-products.

Feed supplements help balance the diet of pigs

In addition to these foods a feed supplement should be fed to pigs. Feed supplements are designed to give animals all or part of the daily nutrients they need to be in optimal condition for breeding or commercial production. Feed supplements come in a variety of forms such as pencils, cakes and meal. The supplements are made from combining many of the foods that animals already eat into a balanced mixture.

Feeding pigs changes when they are breeding

Pigs like their food wet. If you are preparing feed for pigs you should add water to moisten the feed, goats milk is also good for this purpose but keep in mind the milk cannot be waste from a kitchen. When feeding pigs it is best to have troughs to help ensure all the pigs get enough food. This may seem unnecessary but when pigs are foraging, the most aggressive pigs get more food and less aggressive pigs sometimes do not get enough to eat. Having pig troughs helps solve this problem.

Gilts should be given supplements to their natural diet, a good choice sow breeder pencils, cakes or meal specifically designed for gilts. This should be kept up until just before the farrowing period. Maiden gilts are in need of a lot of supplements because even though they are caring unborn young, they are still growing. So the guilt maiden will need to have her feed gradually increased until she delivers. After service there is no need to continue the regime. Once the litter is born the sow needs extra supplements to support both her own nutritional needs and to produce enough milk for the suckling piglets.

Why You Should Only Use Organic Fish Oil Supplements

Organic fruit; organic vegetables; organic meat and dairy, and now I’m just about to add organic fish oil to the list. Surely all fish oil should be organic anyway? After all, most manufacturers make it clear that the oil they use in their supplements comes from only a handful of different species, and most if not all of them live natural lives in our oceans.

Some people might argue that our oceans are too contaminated for anything in them to be organic, but that would be akin to splitting hairs. So, rather than trying to split hairs, let’s all agree with the idea that all ocean caught fish are organic at the time they are caught. Building on this, let’s assume that all the oil harvested from the fish is also organic at the time of harvesting. So, when does the oil change from being organic to being non-organic?

Manufacturing Process & Additives

Virtually all manufacturers actually buy the oil they use in their supplements rather than having to harvest it themselves. As such, they don’t have much control of this process, but they can exercise some caution when choosing their suppliers and by seeking guarantees that no additives are added.

The most common form of oil extraction involves heating the fish up to 95 degrees Celsius in order to separate the oil, water and protein. Once this has been done, the fish go through a press and then a centrifuge is used in order to separate the oil from the sludge which has been created. Up until this point, the oil that has been extracted should still be organic. The only exception would be if oil is being extracted from non-organically farmed fish.

At this stage suppliers have a decision to make. Raw fish oil spoils relatively quickly so they either need to ship it out to their customers as quickly as possible or they have add preservatives. If they don’t, it spoils and will only be fit for use in animal feed, thereby fetching a much lower price.

In most instances, suppliers will ship the oil to the actual manufacturers while it’s still in its organic state, providing that the manufacturer is dealing with a reputable supplier. Unfortunately, it is usually the manufacturers who add preservatives and other additives in order to extend the shelf life of their products; to mask unpleasant odors and etc. For this reason, my advice to people would be that they should avoid buying their supplements from “mass” manufacturers. It’s far better to buy your supplements from companies that only produce enough to meet current customer demands.

Hexane in Fish Oil Supplements

Quite a lot of the supplements you get today contain oil that has essentially been produced from waste and poor quality fish. Suppliers who operate in this manner frequently rely on chemicals in a bid to improve the quality of the oil they are using, and also to maximize yields. One relatively common additive being used is called hexane.

Hexane is a solvent which is made from crude oil and it is classified as a toxic substance. You’ll find plenty of it in rubber cement and in gasoline. Manufacturers use this additive because of its solvent properties in order to try and extract as much oil as they can from poor quality fish.

Some suppliers argue that the hexane is later removed from the oil during further processing, but since the supplement industry remains largely unregulated, there is nobody to ensure that all traces of hexane have in fact been removed. The reality of the matter is, the minute the hexane is added, the oil becomes contaminated.

Feeding A Leopard Gecko 101 – What You Need To Know

When it comes to feeding a leopard gecko, it’s important to know both what to feed him and how to feed him. Unlike cats or dogs that eat whatever dry food from a box you put in front of them, a gecko won’t do that. Instead, it’s important to know what to feed them, and how often.

This article will explore the basics of feeding a leopard gecko, discuss the age-old question of crickets versus mealworms, as well as show you a gecko feeding schedule.

Crickets

This is actually one of the best foods to use when it comes to feeding a leopard gecko, otherwise known as a Leo. It’s nutritious, that’s what geckos want to eat, and they even get exercise trying to chase down live crickets. It’s important to get crickets the right size to make Leo feedings go easier.

A cricket that is too large will not be eaten, at least not easily. The cricket should be no bigger than the space between the gecko’s eyes. This makes it much easier when feeding a leopard gecko.

However, make sure they are live crickets. Feeding geckos dead crickets is a bad idea. The reason is because the cricket has already started to decompose and therefore you’re feeding him or her rotten food. Also, if the cricket died so easily, it was probably sick in the first-place. Either way, it’s not the best choice for feeding a leopard gecko.

The best advice about feeding geckos crickets is to only buy what you need and keep them in a cricketer terrarium until its leopard feeding time. Just remember, feeding a leopard gecko healthy food is how you keep him healthy.

Mealworms

Make no mistake, when it comes to feeding a leopard gecko, they love to eat meal worms. Many people make the mistake of feeding a Leo nothing but meal worms. They figure the gecko is eating, the gecko seems happy, so what could be the harm in feeding a leopard gecko nothing but mealworms? Not every creature needs variety in their diet, right?

Actually, when it comes to gecko feeding, mealworms should not be the only thing you give it. Mealworms to a gecko are actually like cake to us.

We love it, we want to eat it, but if we had all the time we get very sick and fat. It’s the same when it comes to feeding a leopard gecko; if you’re feeding your gecko a steady diet of nothing but mealworms you’re soon going to have a very fat and very sluggish Leopard with a shortened lifespan.

Maybe you have one now. If so, don’t despair, just like people, leopard geckos can lose that weight. All you have to do is start feeding a leopard gecko healthier right now. Crickets are the best choice for feeding a leopard gecko. Not only are they healthy and full of nutrition, the fact that they are going to be jumping around to get away from the gecko are going to provide him with exercise for leopard gecko feeding time.

How often?

Even though it’s the first question people have about feeding geckos; it’s been saved for last because before you know when to feed them, you need to know what they eat. So, ready to learn more about a gecko feeding schedule?

Like all animals, feeding a leopard gecko depends a lot on its age. A Leo can often live to be 25 years old and goes through many changes throughout its life.

A gecko feeding schedule looks but something like this:

Babies should get fed between 4 to 5 small crickets every day while adults can get by with 5 to 6 large crickets every 2 to 3 days. To get the most out of gecko feeding time, you should powder the crickets with calcium supplements, (only for adults, not for babies.)

This will give your gecko an extra boost of nutrition to keep them healthy and strong. And if you think of mealworms as cake, then you know you incorporate them into your geckos feeding schedule a few times a week and not every day.

So now that you know the basics of feeding a leopard gecko, you can be reassured in the knowledge that your leopards feeding time is giving your gecko the best nutrition possible to live a long and happy life with you.

Happy gecko feeding!