Natural Pet Care – The Most Common Misconceptions

There are a lot of misconceptions about natural pet care. Some people think it is not as effective as conventional medications. Some people think it is not safe and are worried about the side effects. Some people think it is too pricey. Some people, not surprisingly, have not heard of natural care for pets at all. This article, as you can guess from the title, aims to throw some light on pet care and gives you some tips to take care of your pets naturally.

First of all, let me tell you what natural pet care is all about. It involves treating and preventing your pet’s health problems in the most natural manner possible. In other words, it is not just about treating diseases, but preventing them by strengthening the immune system of your pet. Now, let us take a look at some of the most common misconceptions about holistic pet care.

Misconception #1 – Natural medications are not as effective as conventional medications.

Herbal and homeopathic medications can be very effective. Medical research behind conventional products are usually better documented than natural approaches, however the role of natural products and anti0oxidants in particular, have recently shown to be beneficial to humans and pets. While natural products cannot replace conventional medications altogether, they are certainly a good choice for people who are looking for a safe and effective way to treat their pet’s health problems.

Misconception #2 – Natural medications are not safe for pets.

It is quite ironic that a lot of people are under the impression that natural pet care is not safe for their pets. Do you know why? Most people who choose natural remedies do so because they have fewer or no side effects vs. many prescription drugs available on the market today. Since most of the ingredients in these natural remedies are completely organic, the chances of allergic reactions or other such side effects are lower.

Misconception #3 – Natural medications are too pricey.

Many owners provide healthy dose of natural remedies every day as a way of avoiding more costly illnesses. A month’s supply of these natural supplements costs just under $50.or less than $2 a day. While $50 is a lot of money, they can help avoid costly issues. These products are not only safe, and affordable.

Misconception #4 – Herbal remedies are usually manufactured by quacks with fake degrees and are not approved by the FDA.

There are a number of high quality herbal dietary supplements for pets on the market today. They are approved by the FDA and are very safe. However, this does not mean that there are no fake herbal products on the market at all. Just like any other field today, natural pet care has its own share of fake experts as well. To avoid such substandard products, you need to go for a good natural remedy which is manufactured under the supervision of a qualified pharmacist and meets the guidelines set by the DSHEA (Dietary Supplement Health Education Act).

I hope the article clarified your doubts on natural pet care. Consider the advantages and the disadvantages of treating your pets naturally and make an informed decision today.

Why You Should Only Use Organic Fish Oil Supplements

Organic fruit; organic vegetables; organic meat and dairy, and now I’m just about to add organic fish oil to the list. Surely all fish oil should be organic anyway? After all, most manufacturers make it clear that the oil they use in their supplements comes from only a handful of different species, and most if not all of them live natural lives in our oceans.

Some people might argue that our oceans are too contaminated for anything in them to be organic, but that would be akin to splitting hairs. So, rather than trying to split hairs, let’s all agree with the idea that all ocean caught fish are organic at the time they are caught. Building on this, let’s assume that all the oil harvested from the fish is also organic at the time of harvesting. So, when does the oil change from being organic to being non-organic?

Manufacturing Process & Additives

Virtually all manufacturers actually buy the oil they use in their supplements rather than having to harvest it themselves. As such, they don’t have much control of this process, but they can exercise some caution when choosing their suppliers and by seeking guarantees that no additives are added.

The most common form of oil extraction involves heating the fish up to 95 degrees Celsius in order to separate the oil, water and protein. Once this has been done, the fish go through a press and then a centrifuge is used in order to separate the oil from the sludge which has been created. Up until this point, the oil that has been extracted should still be organic. The only exception would be if oil is being extracted from non-organically farmed fish.

At this stage suppliers have a decision to make. Raw fish oil spoils relatively quickly so they either need to ship it out to their customers as quickly as possible or they have add preservatives. If they don’t, it spoils and will only be fit for use in animal feed, thereby fetching a much lower price.

In most instances, suppliers will ship the oil to the actual manufacturers while it’s still in its organic state, providing that the manufacturer is dealing with a reputable supplier. Unfortunately, it is usually the manufacturers who add preservatives and other additives in order to extend the shelf life of their products; to mask unpleasant odors and etc. For this reason, my advice to people would be that they should avoid buying their supplements from “mass” manufacturers. It’s far better to buy your supplements from companies that only produce enough to meet current customer demands.

Hexane in Fish Oil Supplements

Quite a lot of the supplements you get today contain oil that has essentially been produced from waste and poor quality fish. Suppliers who operate in this manner frequently rely on chemicals in a bid to improve the quality of the oil they are using, and also to maximize yields. One relatively common additive being used is called hexane.

Hexane is a solvent which is made from crude oil and it is classified as a toxic substance. You’ll find plenty of it in rubber cement and in gasoline. Manufacturers use this additive because of its solvent properties in order to try and extract as much oil as they can from poor quality fish.

Some suppliers argue that the hexane is later removed from the oil during further processing, but since the supplement industry remains largely unregulated, there is nobody to ensure that all traces of hexane have in fact been removed. The reality of the matter is, the minute the hexane is added, the oil becomes contaminated.

Horse Feeding Tips

A horse’s nutritional requirements and his digestive system have not changed since the time he was first domesticated thousands of years ago. However, due to a lack of knowledge, convenience considerations and an over-zealous adoption of the scientific claims of the feed industry, the way we feed a horse has changed dramatically. Often, these methods contradict what natural horsemanship tells us about feeding and result in health problems for the horse and management problems for owner.

Certain principles of natural horsemanship can be applied to choosing a proper feeding program for the horse. Just as we studied aspects of horse physiology and psychology when approaching training techniques, it is beneficial to think in these terms when we decide how to feed our horses. This will tell us both what to feed and how to feed.

It doesn’t take an expert in natural horsemanship or equine nutrition to understand that feeding flakes of alfalfa and grain supplements twice a day to a horse in a stall is not what Mother Nature intended. Indeed, that approach completely ignores a few basic principles that every horse owner should know about their four-legged charges.

A horse’s digestive system is designed to obtain the maximum nutritional benefit from a diet of high-fiber and low-energy grasses. The foundation of a healthy, natural diet for a modern, domesticated horse is grass and grass hay. A horse in his natural environment will spend many hours a day grazing. Most experts say that a horse needs to consume at least 1.5 – 2 lb. of good quality hay and grain for every 100 lbs of body weight. Much will depend upon the metabolism of the horse. Horses that are heavily worked, pregnant and lactating mares will consume up to 3 lbs of dry matter for every 100 lbs. of body weight.

Grass hay is much preferable to alfalfa for the bulk for the horse’s diet for several reasons. Alfalfa is a very rich or “hot” feed for the horse. It contains approximately 50% more protein and energy per pound than grass hay. Its phosphorous to calcium ratio is also too high for a horse’s requirements. When fed with grain, as alfalfa often is, numerous digestive problems including colic may result. Alfalfa may be fed but only in small quantities almost as a supplement, not as the predominant feed component.

Not all hay is the same. The nutritional content of hay depends not only on the variety of grass grown, but also on the soil and amount and type of fertilizer used. Hay quality also can vary and should be examined prior to purchasing. Good hay exhibits the following qualities:

1. Should be leafy as opposed to containing too many stems. Most of hay’s protein is contained in the leaves.

2. Good-quality hay should exhibit a light green color. If it is too yellow or brown, it might have been harvested too late and may not contain proper nutrients.

3. The hay should smell fresh and sweet. Hay that smells moldy or musty should be avoided. Feeding moldy hay can result in colic.

4. Check for weeds and other non-hay matter. Good horse hay should contain a bare minimum of weeds, sticks and debris.

Unfortunately, hay comes without supermarket labels specifying nutritional content, but often a reputable hay supplier will have a laboratory analysis available for a particular cutting of hay he is selling. Parameters to look for include:

1. Moisture: usually averages around 10%. Higher than 13% may result in palatability problems and even mold proliferation.

2. Crude protein: Legume hay will run 20% or more. High quality grass hay might run as high as 12-15%. A minimum should be at least 8%.

3. Digestible energy (DE): This is an estimate of the amount of energy available to the horse from the hay. This figure will vary depending upon the stage of growth at which the grass was cut and harvested. Young grass will have a higher DE. As the crop matures, DE decreases as the lignin content increases. A DE reading of less than 1.65 Mcal/kilogram indicates a high level of indigestibility and should not be fed to horses. This could cause impaction colic.

4. Acid detergent fibre (ADF: Indicates the digestibility of fiber in the hay. ADF levels above 45% indicate poor nutritional levels, while values less than 31% indicate excellent quality hay.

When horses ran wild, their food supply consisted of different kinds of grasses grown in one pasture or field. Today we have lost that natural variety. An improved pasture is more than likely to contain just one variety of hay grass. Feeding just one type of hay can limit the nutritional value of the horse’s ration, especially trace minerals. Several different kinds of hay, ideally, should be fed. This will not only provide a more balanced diet but will also vary taste and texture characteristics of the feed as well.

A horse will also nibble eagerly on all kinds of vegetable matter. A good idea is to provide your horse with tree branches with leaves to chew on. He will not only be able to derive needed nutrients but will use his teeth and wear them down naturally. A horse’s teeth are continually growing, and because of domestication and modern feeding techniques, usually need to be rasped down once a year. In the wild the horse is apt to feed in such a way that the growth of his teeth is naturally kept under control.

In addition to being perfectly suited to extracting maximum nutritional value from grasses, a horse’s digestive system has other requirements which are often ignored by owners. The relatively small size of the stomach limits the amount of feed that can be safely consumed at one time. A horse is unable to vomit or belch. Eating a large volume of hay and grain concentrate twice a day, as most horses do, can be unhealthy and even dangerous. A horse should eat small amounts, many times a day.

One of the unique features of the horse’s digestive system is that even though he has but one stomach compartment, as opposed to ruminants like cows, there is a large microbial population in the cecum and colon. These microbes have the ability to break down and utilize the nutrients contained in forage. The peculiar shape of the colon which bends back upon itself numerous times reduces the rate at which digested food is able to pass. This allows more efficient utilization of roughages in the horse’s feed, but also can cause digestive problems when the horse is not fed correctly.

If you observe a horse eating in a barn situation, you can readily see that he prefers to eat off the ground. Most feeders require a horse to eat with their necks extended and their heads raised. This is an unnatural position for a horse to eat. Grass particles and debris fall back into his face and eyes. The horse cannot properly chew his food, and respiratory problems can result when the horse constantly inhales dust from the hay. It’s better to place hay on the ground in small amounts and in different places.

A diet of high-quality grass and hay should provide all the energy and protein needs non-working horses require. However, if a horse is in training, shows in performance classes or is ridden frequently, you might want to supplement with grain. Although this might be considered a departure from a purely natural approach to feeding, riding and working a horse is a complete departure from what nature intended as well.

In his natural environment as a wild, prey animal, a horse consumed very little grain. His very limited grain consumption took place in the fall from natural grasses that had gone to seed. This probably served to put on extra weight before winter. However, our energy demands on a horse have changed nutritional demands on him as well.

If a horse needs more energy, fat and protein in his diet than he is receiving from a grass and hay-based diet, there are several ways you can get him that additional nutrition. It’s a good idea to avoid feeding the quantity of sugar and molasses present in many commercial sweet feeds. Just as in humans, the ingestion of large amounts of sugar can play havoc with the horse’s insulin-regulating mechanism. Compounded grain products may also contain other undesirable ingredients such as fish and animal by-products.

You can get your horse the extra energy he needs through supplementing with rice and wheat bran or oats and barley. Limit the horse’s intake of prepared rations of grain except for pregnant and lactating mares and young foals. We want to feed naturally but we don’t want to reject out of hand advances in feed science. Educate yourself and choose supplements based on your horse’s true needs. Do not overfeed grain, however.

Natural supplements that are useful to include in a horse’s daily ration include flaxseed. Flaxseed is a good source for important Omega-3 fatty acids that are so important in human diets too. Omega-3 fatty acids can play a role in alleviating chronic inflammation and strengthen the immune system. They can improve the condition of a horse’s coat and hooves.

Food-grade diatomaceous earth (DE) supplements is a lesser-known source of trace minerals, internal and external parasite control, improved feed utilization and fly control. DE is a desiccant and can be used as a feed supplement or can be spread around stalls and the barn and will kill 75% of flies, fleas and mites that come into contact with it. Horse owners who use DE religiously claim that feeding DE to their foals and grown horses eliminates the need for chemical worming.

Horses themselves can be a judge of what trace minerals they need to consume. Have you ever seen a horse digging in the ground and begin to lick some special rock they’ve found? He seems to know instinctively what minerals he is lacking and where he can get them. This probably pertains more to a wild and varied environment than to a controlled and limited pasture environment. For that reason, it is a good idea to provide a free-choice salt and trace mineral product especially formulated for horses.

When horses are first offered this feeding option, they will initially consume a considerable amount but begin self-regulating very quickly. A supply of salt is essential to a horse’s health and well-being. In the wintertime salt should be manually added to a horse’s feed in order to ensure that he drinks the proper amount of water. Be sure to make available to the horse an unlimited supply of fresh, clean water.